Our company provides and installs most types of insulating products used for temperature control in all kinds of buildings.
For new structures where a person is starting with a new concrete slab or conventional foundation, we provide and install fiberglass batts that go between the floor joists. Typically this insulation is installed prior to the subflooring being put down. Nylon mesh netting is rolled across the joist and used to “pan” the joist space. An unfaced fiberglass batt is then placed in the panned joist space and flooring installed over. This is the best method when installing floor insulation prior to the floor being down. The netting holds the batts up basically forever and is a much better support than the metal support rods. Some worry about the batts getting wet but we’ve seldom seen this happen. The water doesn’t seem to find its way thru the tongue and groove joint of standard plywood, and the butt joints are blocked by the joist. Some remodeling projects may have the old girder system where there are no joist, only 4x6 girders at 48” on center. In this case the insulation can be supported by lacing galvanized electric fence wire back and forth from nails or screws protruding from the bottom of the girder.
Open walls can be insulated with unfaced fiberglass batts during the new construction phase, or during a remodel if the wall covering is being removed. For a remodel or retrofit application where the wall covering is going to remain, a different approach is needed. See the explanation under “Wall insulation- Retrofit”. For new construction or a remodel with the wall covering removed, the fiberglass batts are friction fit between the studs. We like to do this after the exterior siding has been installed. When installing insulation at an interior wall, it’s ideal if one side of the partition walls have had the drywall installed. If friction fit batts are installed in completely open framing, even a slight breeze can dislodge the product. Drywall installers are not well known for picking this back up and putting it back. We recommend all walls be insulated. It gives the building a much more solid feel. Especially when doors are shut, it doesn’t echo. And it works very well for sound control. It’s a whole lot cheaper to have us install fiberglass batts when the framing is open than to have us come back and drill holes and blow in cellulose years later.
For ceilings and attics we install either fiberglass batts between the joist or we can return when the ceiling is hung and we can then blow in loose fill insulation in the flat attic space. We believe cellulose to be the superior loose fill product and have been installing it for over 30 years. It resists air flow thru the material and has a higher R-value per inch than fiberglass. At times, in order to get a higher R-value in a limited space, a “high density” batt may be used. These batts boost the R-value up to R-21 for a 2x6 space, or an R-15 for a 2x4 space or an R-30 that is only 8.25” thick. Or to give a wall or celling an even higher R-value, one of the rigid foam board products may be used. The drawback is cost but if you only have a 2x6 space we can use the foam and get you an R-30 and still leave an air space. Our company does not install the spray type of foam. We feel it’s still too new. It’s been shown to outgas for a long time after installation. And any product that requires the installer to don a full head to toe body suit, and even take in his own separate air supply, may just not be all that safe. And if it should ever burn it gives off the same gas used in the gas chamber.